Architecture may not usually be associated with intrigue or drama on the scale of a Latin American telenovela, but if it ever were to inspire a movie-of-the-week, the story behind the Sydney Opera House would provide plenty of material. Egos clashed, tantrums were thrown and the old guard of grey-suited, stuffy politicians came head-to-head with the wide collars and hippie flares of a new generation who had started to view architects not as vassals of the state or employees of the rich but as artists in their own right. Dig a little deeper into the characters involved and you emerge with a spiderweb of scandals, from a building process mired in delays and overspending to careers wrecked over sexcapades with self-professed pagan witches and lives ruined by seating design.

It is one of the most recognisable buildings in the world, sitting in pride of place on the shores of the beautiful city harbour. Perhaps the controversy came as a kind of karma. Sydney Opera House is located at Bennelong Point, named after Woollarawarre Bennelong – a member of the First Nations Wanga clan who was kidnapped by the Governor to act as an interlocutor. Once the land of the Gadigal people of the Eora nation, this promontory was an essential area in the early invasion and colonisation of Australia. By the 1940s it became the location of a tram shed until it was demolished in the 1950s to make way for the Sydney Opera House.

The competition to design the Sydney Opera House was one of the most renowned architectural contests in history. Launched in 1956 by the New South Wales government, the goal was to create an iconic cultural landmark. The winning design came from Danish architect Jørn Utzon, whose bold concept stood apart for its fluidity, organic forms, and seemingly impossible ambition. It wasn’t just a building, it was a sculptural gesture – an ode to the power of architecture to move beyond structure and enter the realm of art, and a homage to the surrounding waters.

Utzon was not an experienced architect when he started designing the Sydney Opera House. When construction began in 1959, it wasn’t long before the ambitious design revealed complex and expensive engineering challenges, many of which had no precedent. Political tensions and mounting costs eventually forced him to resign from the project in 1966, leaving the project unfinished. Protests erupted, led by architectural students, writers and cultural commentators demanding that Utzon be returned to his post. Yet, the Australian authorities were undeterred and appointed a government architect, Peter Hall, to complete the job. The unassuming Dane left Australia traumatised and never once returned.

Peter Hall had the daunting task of finishing the work of a genius under the heavy hand and watchful eye of government bean counters. It was a position that would garner him the ire of his peers and lead him down a road of shame that ultimately ended in tragedy. Renovations began in 2010 to address numerous acoustic, technical and aesthetic issues while restoring Utzon’s original vision. Although Jørn Utzon declined to return to Australia, his son Jan acted as an intermediary, providing a set of design principles that would guide all future upgrades. By this time, Hall’s contributions were starting to be recognised as essential in taking the building to completion as scholars and architectural historians began to highlight the complexity of the task he faced and his skill in balancing practical needs with the constraints of the project. In 2015, he was formally acknowledged with a commemorative plaque, a significant moment for his family and advocates who had long campaigned for his recognition.

Regardless of the controversies surrounding it, the Sydney Opera House is a reminder that great architecture can be transcendent, offering more than just shelter or utility. From a distance, it is grand, almost otherworldly, rising from the edge of Sydney Harbour, its unmistakable silhouette of soaring white sails appears almost weightless, as if it were part of the water, the sky, the air itself. Up close, the texture of its tiles and the rhythm of its curves draw you into a more intimate relationship with the structure and the art that takes place inside. The Sydney Opera House is not simply a space for performance; it is a performance in itself.

Addendum: If you are wondering where the pagan witch comes into it, her name was Rosaleen Norton and she was the lover of British conductor Sir Eugene Goossens, who had successfully lobbied for the construction of an opera house and essential in the choosing of Bennelong Point as its location. He was arrested in Sydney in 1956 for possession of pornographic material connected to Rosaleen and returned to England disgraced.